West Highland Way: Day 4
Inverarnan to Tyndrum.
I was still recovering on the morning of day 4, so I had a full Scottish breakfast at the Stagger Inn on the camp site before I left.
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I did’t take a photo of my food but it was great. Instead you can also admire the weird shit they had on the walls.
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As well as the guest book I didn’t sign.
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I had trimmed my toe nails before setting off but my little toe had somehow grown a pointy bit that was stabbing into my other toe. Luckily the on-site shop had supplies to sort me out.
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The shop was also where I had a nice conversation with another camper. No names, just talking. I was starting to like this talking to other people idea.
Packing up my things to leave a neighbour noticed I had used my towel to wipe the water off my tent and recommended using a sponge instead.
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It wasn’t preachy, it was just advice from one camper to another. And he was right, my towel was damp for the rest of the week after that.
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The difficult walking was all done with.
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Today would be much easier.
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In fact the only difficult parts were crouching underneath the sheep dips,
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avoiding puddles,
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and trying to slow myself down from the dancing pace I had settled into.
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Eventually I passed through a sheep farm,
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where I was lucky enough to witness a shepherd and his dog in action.
Getting closer to Tyndrum was a very tiny shop selling supplies.
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All the profits went to the local school, who were raising money to buy a new climbing frame.
I didn’t have any actual money on me and I felt terrible. I had wanted to support the local economy during my trip, and here I was with a perfect outlet for it, and yet I only had my card on me.
I ended up spending hundreds of pounds playing on their local climbing frame, and yet I couldn’t find a way to spare a couple quid for the children to have their own.
Luckily the pizza rocks were free.
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It wasn’t the ideal gift to give a hiker who still has 75km to walk, but it weighed less than the guilt.
Getting closer to Tyndrum I stumbled upon a Lochan that may or may not contain Robert the Bruce’s sword,
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but I didn’t check.
I arrived in Tyndrum at a much more reasonable time than the day before, feeling a hell of a lot better for the easier path and slower pace of the day.
The route takes you past a holiday park with big signs that they have hot tubs. I will admit I was slightly tempted, but something told me to continue roughing it in my tent. It’d feel better in the long run.
So I setup camp in a corner of By the Way campsite, looking at this saggy tent,
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before heading up the road to the Tyndrum Inn where I sat outside,
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and had the best Haggis, Neeps and Tatties I’ve ever had,
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before settling in for the evening and watching Good Bloke Outdoors' video on the insanely low amount of things he took on the same route as me,
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as well as whatever Paul Messner had been up to that day.
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Inverarnan to Tyndrum: 19km